Alabaster Sands and Barely Visible Speedos

Although we think of Sweden in modern times as being an isolationist, icy, socialist-leaning country (and home of bad 70s disco), for several centuries it was the dominant power in the Baltics. That is, until the Great Northern War (1700-1721), when Denmark, Norway, Prussia, Poland and Russia all ganged up and kicked its ass, after which Russia became the dominant power in the region. And Sweden still cries itself to sleep after its nightly mead.

During this war, Liepaja, a major seaport for the Swedish empire, was decimated and its population was reduced by about half. Numerous touching and visceral statues speckled around town lovingly honor a time when the Swedes were not just blonde sissies. And none of the pictures I took are good enough to put up so too bad.

I spent a couple of hours on the pristine beaches of Liepaja on the Baltic Sea, making my skin a couple shades too dark for this part of the world, and the stinging of the ocean water on my open blisters was exquisite. The sights were simultaneously inspiring and horrific. I have come to the conclusion that, when Latvia was accepted to the European Union, there was such jubilation country-wide that fornication became rampant. That is the only explanation I can muster for the sheer number of baby carriages being shoved and maneuvered around town (although, honestly, I'm not sure there are actually babies in those carraiges. hmmm.)

Tomorrow I go back to Riga, pick up my visas from the goddess Julija and then don my battle armor as I head into Belarus by bus.