Krasnoyarsk

One of the treats that Russia has to offer is the offchance that hot water will be cut off, as I found out today as Krasnoyarsk will have none from August 1 to 14. I have never fully experienced the power of truly cold water like this morning's skull-cracking Siberian shower, and as I tried in vain to contain the inevitable and unmanly yelps, my head undoubtedly shrunk to 90% of its normal size.

Krasnoyarsk is a river city, on the mighty Yenesei, of about one million people, making it the second largest city in Siberia. Approximately 1/4 of Russia's aluminum supply is produced in this region. Mmmm aluminum. The area outside Hotel Krasnoyarsk, where I'm paying $25 a night for the privilege of being glaciated, is full of luminous fountains, intellectuals and cafes, giving it an Italian piazza feel. The people here are quite friendly and, sometimes, when asking directions, they will take you by the hand and lead you there personally. They are genuinely curious about Westerners, and Americans in general, but very few people speak English with any proficiency.

Today I have been desperately trying to buy a train ticket to Siberia's megapolis, Novosibirsk, but so far I have had no luck finding a shortcut. Looks like I have to go to the train station myself and deal with the ogres-behind-plexiglas.